It Begins

10:40 p.m. Finally got to bed at dawn, vainly trying to adjust my biorhythms to a suddenly polar cycle, so it was early afternoon before I really got myself down to banjara alley. I clambered up on the platform and sat amidst the piles of old textiles, diving on in. It’s increasingly clear that the…

Paharganj Bizarre

9:37 a.m. A bleary morn on the Paharganj main bazaar. New hotel room here at the Hotel Shelton—or as the rooftop restaurant here says on the menu, the Hotel Sheltron. (My alter-ego, Typo Man, could spend his entire incarnation here correcting creative English spelling.) Beds here are, shall we say, firm. Which is to say,…