Back to Rajasthan

Jaipur, Rajasthan, 8:18 p.m.  Finally, dear Delhi departed—huzzah! Not a moment too soon, I swear. I hopped a pre-dawn ride with my friend Raju’s driver Mukesh, who was returning to Jaipur at 6 a.m.—worth waking up early to grab that easy flow. Groggy as I was, it felt great to enter incredible and evocative Rajasthan again, […]

It Begins

10:40 p.m. Finally got to bed at dawn, vainly trying to adjust my biorhythms to a suddenly polar cycle, so it was early afternoon before I really got myself down to banjara alley. I clambered up on the platform and sat amidst the piles of old textiles, diving on in. It’s increasingly clear that the […]


Jaipur Rajasthan 2:36 p.m. Time Between Calling for Doctor and His Arrival at my Bedside: 30 minutes Total Cost of 5-day Course of Medicines to Combat Illness (including Antibiotics, Fever-Reducing Medicines, and Antihistamines): $2.50 Total Cost of Doctor’s 30 minute Housecall: $10 Overall Feeling of Satisfaction and Superiority Knowing That the US Health Care System is the ‘Best in […]

Govind devji Temple

Jaipur Rajasthan 11:11 p.m. Yesterday morning, finally, we made a pilgrimage to Sri Govind devji temple, in the heart of the Pink City. I love, love, love this place. That simple hour of temple immersion is, so far, the pinnacle of this year’s time in India.

The Places in Between Jaipur & Kabul

Jaipur Rajasthan 5p.m. I have just today finished reading Rory Stewart’s fascinating book The Places in Between, about his highly dubious undertaking of following the Emperor Babur’s epic trek from Herat near the border of Iran across central Afghanistan’s high mountains into Kabul, alone and in mid-winter, just a few months after the USA’s invasion of […]

The Slough of Despond

Jaipur, Rajasthan 6:15 p.m. How else to put it? Today was simply a bleak trough of chills and fever—just the sort of thing that reminds me what a wimp I am when it comes to being sick as the proverbial dog. It began with a largely restless night, though I thought I survived OK as the […]

Crash Landing

Jaipur, Rajasthan 10:37 p.m Ouch. Days like this are hard, especially on the road. Yesterday afternoon’s woozy aches and slight tickle in the throat became today’s total crash and burn. I never even thought about leaving my room today. Sampling various medicines that I’m now especially happy made the journey with me from the States, I […]

Wi-fi Jai!

Jaipur, Rajasthan 9:40 p.m. Well, the good news is that we have finally emerged from the rather bleak confines of Paharganj’s Hotel Shelton, making our escape in the dead of night via Toyota Qualis and arriving at 2 this morning to the Arya Niwas hotel in downtown Jaipur. My travel partner Sara, who gamely absorbed a […]

Bunty Ji

Paharganj, Delhi 10:04 p.m. Bunty runs a little roadside restaurant on one end of the Paharganj Main Bazaar called the Madan Café. He can be seen above while accidentally walking into the frame as I was trying to shoot the beautiful blue and white cotton-clad cow who was pulling someone down the road right in front of […]